![]() “The proportion of Lye versus other ingredients in the relaxer can vary from brand to brand, with some companies choosing to label theirs ‘No Lye’ to give the impression that it’s a safer product to use, when in fact there is still lye present,” says Mellissa Phills, a stylist with Yeluchi mobile hair salon. ![]() Calcium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and ammonium thioglycolate are commonly marketed as no lye relaxers, but they all have some amount of lye in them. Lye relaxers are also those that some believe are linked to an increased risk of cancer, and lye is the same ingredient found in industrial solvents and can be highly corrosive, so many argue that it is not fit for your hair, which is why there are so many alternatives. Sodium hydroxide, also known as a lye relaxer, is commonly used in salons by professionals as it is effective and very strong. As mentioned above, the main ingredient in relaxers is sodium hydroxide, but Wallace explains that there are actually four chemical straighteners on the market: sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and ammonium thioglycolate. Having the best products is a good starting point. So we want to give you the guidance to do it right. It’s the professional recommendation of all our experts to have a licensed stylist apply your relaxer, in a salon setting, but we know some of you do this at home. With that in mind we asked Wallace, English, and four other hairstylists about how to relax your hair properly and what you can do to keep it healthy. “I have a lot of clients who still have a relaxer and their hair is just as healthy as the natural-hair girls,” says Mika English, founder of Grew by M.E. Many people find straight hair easier to care for and if you’re someone who regularly wears your hair straight, not having to iron out your coils every wash day makes that process much more simple. “A lot of people that were natural and having that maintained in the salon, felt like they couldn’t handle it themselves, so they actually put relaxers in their hair,” says Wallace. Still, last year Hampton, Virginia–based stylist Joie Wallace says she saw a reversal: an uptick in people getting relaxers. Hair damage and potential toxicity are two reasons why so many women have embraced their natural curls. Like with any other chemical treatment ( hair dye or keratin), a relaxer can weaken and damage the hair. There has also been some research linking excessive use of certain relaxers to a higher risk of estrogen-receptor-positive breast cancer. ![]() This treatment chemically straightens the hair, typically with sodium hydroxide, which breaks down hydrogen bonds inside coily hair to produce a straighter strand. Natural hair gets most of the attention, but plenty of people still do get relaxers.
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